Finally: Machu Picchu

The morning we were heading to Machu Picchu was like almost every race morning I’ve experienced.

My alarm went off at 4:12 a.m. (side note: I’m weird and set my alarm ending in either 2 or 7 every time. I have no real reason why). We had breakfast at the hotel, but I wasn’t able to eat much, forcing down a little fresh fruit and a roll with jam on it.

People who hike the Inca Trail actually hike straight into Machu Picchu. For most of the rest of us, we take a 30-minute bus ride up the hill from Aguas Calientes.

Despite the dark, early hour, the line stretched about four blocks up a hill. It really was like a bus departure for a marathon. Everyone was dressed warmly in clothes that they would probably start shedding soon after reaching our destination, and jitters were clearly evident.

Some entrepreneurial women walked up and down the street, offering hot coffee and snacks to everyone in line.

The bus ride was fairly uneventful, although it took some energy to keep my stomach in check as we wound up switchback after switchback.

Ruben's classroom was pretty amazing.

Finally, we were walking in Machu Picchu, and Ruben gave us a tour for the first couple of hours.

The place really is magical. And it’s truly amazing to see what people created on the top of a mountain during the 15^th Century. I’ve been reading the book Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time by Mark Adams, a hilarious yet informative tale of exploring this area, which gave me part of the history. (Honesty: I have not actually finished the book yet.) It’s unbelievable to think about Hiram Bingham venturing from Hawaii to Peru and finding this lost city in 1911. To say Bingham discovered Machu Picchu is a stretch, considering that he paid some locals to take him to ruins in the area, but give him credit for exposing the world to Machu Picchu’s wonders.

I’ve thought a lot recently about why so many people have Machu Picchu on their bucket list (or whatever you want to call your wish list of places to visit). I don’t have an answer, but I can tell you that I have been to a lot of cool places and done some pretty great stuff, and the Salkantay Trail ending with Machu Picchu may have moved to the top of the list.

Some people say they have achieved a spiritual enlightenment after visiting Machu Picchu. I don’t know about that. However, I can tell you I gained an appreciation of what humans can do. And while the views of the lost city itself are impressive, the views of the surrounding mountains and valleys are among the most incredible I have ever seen. It’s little wonder why the Incas went to so much trouble to establish their secret city there. 

A random couple decided that an impromptu make-out session
at Machu Picchu was a good use of the morning.

After we descended and had lunch, we hopped on a train and rode back to Cusco.

I’m thankful for the eight people I was fortunate to hike with for five days and being able to experience Machu Picchu with them.

When it was all finished, this is how it added up:

Total Days: 5

Total Miles Hiked: 55

Total Number of Microclimates: 3

Elevation Change on the Second Day: 2,800 meters/9,186 feet

Total Elevation Change on the Trail: 3,600 meters/11,811 feet

Total Temperature Change on the Trail: 73 degrees

Total Mosquito Bites on My Lower Legs & Feet: 21

Total Number of Blisters on Fran’s Feet: 5

Total Soon-to-be-Lost Toenails: 1

Total Number of Stray Dachshunds on the Trail: 1

After Machu Picchu, we jumped on a three-hour train ride back to Cusco, and Wayki Treks had someone waiting to take us all back to our hotels.

It had been a really long day, and we had to hike about two blocks to our hostel because the van wouldn’t make it up the steep hill to the front door. We were exhausted and desperately wanted a shower and dinner (it was about 9:30 p.m.).

Me and Fran from Machu Picchu Mountain,
overlooking the Citadel.

The very kind owner of our hostel looked sheepish and said, “I didn’t think you were coming back until tomorrow.”

Fran had reminded his wife of our return date the morning we left for the hike and watched her type it in. Needless to say, the man found the reservation in his computer, but there was a problem.

“I’m sorry. This has never happened,” he said. “But I’m full tonight.”

We were incredulous, but he quickly jumped on the phone and made a few calls.

“I’ve got you booked into a hotel a few blocks away,” he said. “And I’m going to cover your night’s costs. I’m sorry. This really has never happened. The only thing is we are going to have to walk over there.”

With that, we grabbed all of our stuff, which at that point was spread across six bags, and lugged it up two more very steep blocks and over another three.

It turned out to be a very nice hotel, and we were fortunate to find a restaurant open at 10:30, when we finally rolled in. Of course, the owner was clearly put off that we came in that late and he obviously wanted to close for the night.

We ate quickly and walked back to the hotel. We had a morning flight to Lima the next day.